Hiking trip to Hotam HaCarmel in Binyamina-Giv'at Ada of Dec 30, 2023

In Binyamina, the Dvora-class fast patrol boat stands as a monument near the ORT Shomron School. It was a light patrol vessel, retired from operational service, and donated to the city as a memorial for the residents who fell in the war. The ship is conveniently located with nearby parking, and just a few steps away is the start of the trail to Ein Tzur.

This boat offers a unique experience - a rope allows visitors to climb aboard, explore the deck, go below, and enter. Did you know? The Dvora is a naval craft used for ongoing security operations. The original model was purchased in the USA in 1970. During the Yom Kippur War, Dvora boats thwarted Egyptian attacks in the Red Sea, struck enemy harbours, and destroyed Egyptian commando boats preparing to raid Israeli targets.

In the late 1970s, Israel (Ramat David) began manufacturing its Dvora boats, producing several series and upgrading the older ones. During the 1980s and 1990s, the ships underwent modifications to enhance their speed (modified Dvora) and manoeuvrability (adjusted AD Dvora). To this day, Dvora crews have foiled dozens of sea-based terror attempts and sunk many terrorist boats.

Specifications:

• Length: 19.8 meters
• Width: 5.8 meters
• Displacement: 36 tons
• Maximum speed: 30 knots
• Propulsion: 2 diesel engines
• Armament: 2 20mm cannons, 0.5 calibre machine guns, MAGs, possibility for NLOS torpedoes, depth charges
• Crew: 8 people

In winter and spring, the Carmel Ridge region blooms with anemones, not just in red but also in shades of purple, blue, and white. The anemone, with its diverse colours, has a rich background in Greek mythology, explaining its name. According to the myth, the anemone flower sprang from the tears of Aphrodite as she mourned the death of Adonis. It's believed that Aphrodite's tears mixed with Adonis' blood, giving the anemone its vibrant colours. This story adds a layer of mythological significance to the already stunning beauty of these flowers in their natural habitat.

Terra Rossa, also known as "derezina" in some regions, is a type of soil commonly found in Mediterranean areas, including the southern slopes of Carmel in Israel. It's a red soil formed through the intense weathering of limestone or dolomite rocks, where carbonate salts are leached out, leaving behind iron and aluminium oxides. These oxides give the soil its characteristic red colour.

Features of terra rossa include:

1. High Mineral Content: Rich in iron and other minerals, terra rossa is fertile and suitable for agriculture, particularly vineyards.

2. Soil Structure: The soil typically has a loamy or clay texture, which retains water well but can be heavy and dense.

3. Terrace Formation: On the southern slopes of Carmel, terra rossa contributes to the formation of step-like terraces, a feature common in many Mediterranean landscapes. These terraces help control erosion and improve water usage in arid conditions.

In the context of hiking, the terra rossa soils on the southern slopes of Carmel create a unique landscape that may include gentle ascents intersected by stepped sections, providing an exciting and varied terrain for walkers.

On the terra rossa soils of Carmel's southern slopes, flowers like the Calendula and the Star of Bethlehem thrive, creating a vibrant hiking landscape.

Calendula, commonly known as marigold, is notable for its bright orange or yellow flowers. Its name comes from the Latin word 'calendae,' meaning the first day of the month, suggesting its blooming at the beginning of most months. Calendula has been used traditionally for its medicinal properties, especially in skin care and healing salves, due to its anti-inflammatory and antiseptic qualities.

The Star of Bethlehem flower is known for its striking white star-shaped petals. Its name derives from its biblical association with the Star of Bethlehem that guided the Wise Men. This plant is often seen as a symbol of purity and hope. In herbal medicine, it's sometimes used for its soothing properties, although it should be handled with care as it can be toxic.

Both flowers, with their unique characteristics and mythological connotations, add to the rich tapestry of Carmel Ridge's hiking experience, making the trails not only a journey through nature but also through history and folklore.

As you ascend from the eastern to the western slopes on your hike through the Carmel region, you'll reach a plateau where a remarkable pine grove awaits. This grove is characterised by its sparse forest, with widely spaced trees creating a bright and open space. The understory is clean and clear, and here, one may encounter the intriguing mandrake root.

The mandrake, steeped in myths and folklore, is a plant surrounded by an aura of mystery and magic. In ancient times, it was believed to scream when uprooted, and its cry was said to be lethal. Due to its human-like root form, it was often associated with supernatural powers and used in various rituals and potions. Mandrake was also used medicinally as an anaesthetic and for its soothing properties. The legends surrounding this plant add an element of mystique to the serene setting of the Carmel pine grove.

As you continue exploring the smaller trails in the park, they eventually connect with the main trail – the Israel National Trail. This trail is renowned among hikers worldwide and is highly rated in the global hiking community.

The Israel National Trail stretches over approximately 1,100 kilometres, traversing the diverse landscapes of Israel from the northern border with Lebanon to the southern tip at Eilat. It's celebrated for its variety, leading hikers through mountains, deserts, forests, and along the Mediterranean coastline, offering a unique cross-section of Israel's natural beauty and cultural heritage.

The trail is marked by a distinctive colour scheme: white, blue, and orange stripes. These colours symbolise the trail's passage through snowy Mount Hermon (white), the Mediterranean Sea (blue), and the Negev desert (orange). This symbolic representation in its markings reminds us of the diverse terrains and experiences the trail encompasses.

For hikers, the Israel National Trail isn't just a physical journey; it's a cultural and historical exploration, offering insights into the land and its people. The trail includes various points of interest, including historical sites, natural landmarks, and opportunities to engage with different communities along the route. This diversity and depth make the Israel National Trail a unique and memorable experience for hikers worldwide.

Continuing on your journey through the Carmel region, you'll encounter another pine grove, but this one presents a different landscape. It's denser, with shrubs beginning to appear, though they're less abundant than in natural forests. This distinction between the sparser, artificial pine groves and the more dense, natural ones is significant.

A natural forest in this region is often called "garigue." Garigue is a type of low, scrubby vegetation characteristic of Mediterranean areas. It's a landscape formed mainly of kermes oak, mastic, and aromatic herbs like thyme and rosemary. The garigue results from the dry, hot climate of the Mediterranean and centuries of human activity like grazing and fire, which have prevented the development of taller forests.

In Garigue, the biodiversity is rich despite the harsh conditions. It's a resilient ecosystem, adapted to the dry climate, with drought-resistant plants that often have small, leathery leaves to minimise water loss. For hikers, garigue offers a stark contrast to the artificial pine groves, showcasing the raw, unmanicured beauty of the Mediterranean landscape. This ecosystem is not only a delight for the senses, with its aromatic herbs and rugged scenery but also a testament to the adaptability of nature in the face of climatic challenges.

At this point in the hike through the Carmel region, you can observe the typical garigue above the Binyamina quarry and the Nahal Taninim valley.

The Binyamina Quarry was established in the early 1930s. Initially, it was developed by PIC"A to construct the Binyamina-Pardes Hanna road. Later, workers formed a cooperative society and took over its management. With the outbreak of World War II, the quarry was taken over by Solel Boneh. It played a significant role in providing construction materials and especially in separating gravel and transporting it to train carriages.

In the rehabilitation works around Nahal Taninim following the 1991-1992 floods and excavations in the early 2000s, remnants of a large dam known before the rehabilitation works were found. This dam created a lake that supplied water to the lower aqueduct and operated flour mills. There are also remnants of Crocodilopolis from the Persian period and remains from the Byzantine settlement. South of the lake are remnants of the ancient Roman aqueduct that supplied water to Caesarea. In 1898, a bridge was built over the stream of the river to facilitate the passage of German Emperor Wilhelm II's carriage on his way from Haifa to Jaffa and Jerusalem during his visit to Israel. The bridge was partly destroyed and was reconstructed and restored in 2020.

Nahal Taninim is known not only for its historical significance but also for its natural beauty. Israeli songwriter Ehud Manor, born in Binyamina, wrote a song about Nahal Taninim, composed by Nahum Heiman and performed by Chava Alberstein.

This part of the hike, with its blend of history, archaeology, and natural beauty, offers a unique and immersive experience, connecting the past with the present in the scenic backdrop of the Carmel region.

The point referred to as "Hotem HaCarmel" (the Stamp of Carmel) offers a panoramic and historically significant view that highlights the Carmel hiking trail. Imagine the Carmel mountain range as a right-angled triangle on the map, with Haifa at the 60-degree angle protruding into the sea and Hotem HaCarmel representing the right angle or base of the triangle.

From this vantage point, one can see a vast expanse, including Pardes Hanna-Karkur, Hadera, Or Akiva, Caesarea, and Jisr az-Zarqa. The Rabin Lights power station and the gas platform opposite Kibbutz Ma'agan Michael are also distinctly visible.

Additionally, this location features a unique element for hikers – the "Library of the Israel National Trail." This box is painted in the trail's colours, containing books for travellers to enjoy, embodying the spirit of community and shared knowledge that the trail promotes.

This site, rich in natural beauty and historical depth, offers a profound connection to the past and a moment of reflection for hikers on the Israel National Trail.

The stone tumuli directly in front of the viewpoint at Hotem HaCarmel are fascinating remnants of the region's ancient past. These tumuli are ancient tombs, each consisting of a rectangular burial chamber encircled by fieldstones and covered with soil and stones, with diameters ranging from 4 to 9 meters. Findings from these tombs, which are minimal, suggest they each held one adult, sometimes accompanied by a child and an artefact. This site is believed to have been a burial ground for a shepherd community that lived in the southern part of Carmel during the Early Bronze Age, specifically in the Canaanite period between 2500 and 2000 B.C.E. Over twenty of these tumuli were excavated by a team from the Hebrew University between 1989 and 1991, offering a glimpse into the life and death rituals of these ancient peoples.

The geological aspect of this area is equally intriguing. The stones here are part of a limestone cliff, prone to weathering and erosion, creating uniquely shaped stones that resemble cubes. Beneath this cliff runs a road on arches over Nahal Taninim. The village of Jisr az-Zarqa, visible beyond the greenhouses along the seashore, translates to "Green Bridge." It earned this name when a green carriage of German Emperor Wilhelm II crossed the bridge over Nahal Taninim in 1898, two years before the turn of the 20th century. The Ottoman Empire established the village, and its residents, brought from Africa, were known to have immunity to malaria. This was significant because the area was marshy due to the overflowing Nahal Taninim. The presence of these marshes is why the road still runs on arches today.

The name "Taninim" translates to "crocodiles," indeed, crocodiles once inhabited this river and its marshes. The last crocodile in the area was killed in the early 20th century, and its stuffed remains are displayed in the Natural History Museum at Tel Aviv University.

This location not only offers a beautiful natural panorama but also a rich tapestry of historical, cultural, and geological significance, connecting visitors to the deep and varied history of the region.

Adding to the narrative, this spot at Hotem HaCarmel, with its panoramic views and historical significance, is also the perfect place for a rest stop. Here, hikers can take a moment to relax, reflect on the journey, and enjoy a cup of coffee amidst the serene natural beauty and the whispers of history that surround them. It's an ideal setting to pause, rejuvenate, and appreciate the unique blend of nature and history before continuing on the trail.

Horvat Akav (Hebrew: חורבת עקב), also known as Khirbet Mansur al-Aqab, is an archaeological site situated at the highest point of Ramat Hanadiv, on the southwestern cliff of Carmel. This complex served as a residential area during two main periods: the Second Temple and the Byzantine period. The first explorations were conducted by Claude Conder and Herbert Kitchener (1873) from the British Palestine Exploration Fund. More than a century later, from 1984 to 1987, archaeological excavations were led by Professor Yizhar Hirschfeld, uncovering evidence of settlement during the medieval period.

During the Byzantine period in Horvat Akav, a villa existed from the mid-5th to the mid-7th century until the Arab conquest. This rural-style villa was used for living, working, and storage. The northern wing likely served as a wine cellar and storage area. Following the Arab conquest, the demand for wine decreased as its consumption was forbidden in Islam, and the residents who relied on wine production lost their source of income.

The well at the site was apparently partly utilizing a karst cavity and partly carved out. It was plastered to retain water and was located on the estate or monastery grounds but outside the main building and its central courtyard. This well could have been used for watering livestock and for various large-scale agricultural activities, ranging from the southern oil press to the northern wine press. Such a strategic placement of the well indicates its integral role in the daily functioning of the estate or monastery, supporting both the agricultural and domestic needs of the inhabitants.

In Horvat Akav, during the Second Temple period, a magnificent estate was built, which was abandoned during the revolt against the Romans (66-70 CE). In the Byzantine period, the site was resettled. The Byzantine villa, using stones from the earlier building, featured a water well outside the villa but within the estate. A channel from the villa's inner courtyard collected rainwater into this well during the rainy months. Surrounding the square were numerous outbuildings, particularly animal pens, suggesting this might have been a small monastery rather than a villa. Such small monasteries were instrumental for the Byzantines in effectively controlling and managing Eretz Israel until the Arab conquest. Additionally, a mikveh from the Second Temple period was discovered.

Horvat Akav also revealed remnants of an oil press (Bet HaBad) and a threshing floor (Goren). The oil press was part of a setup where olives were crushed as a precursor to oil extraction from the resulting paste. The threshing floor was used for threshing sheaves with a threshing sledge and then separating the grains from the chaff by tossing them into the air. The heavier grains would settle in place while the lighter debris was blown away. The location of the threshing floor, on the edge of the cliff open to the western wind, facilitated the winnowing process. The wheat field from which the sheaves were brought to the threshing floor likely stretched over the large area east of the estate. The threshing floor's pavement is located north of the oil press, in the northwestern corner of the Second Temple period complex.

Our hiking route through the southern Carmel region takes us through the Timsah stream, which translates to "crocodile" in English. This name is used specifically to refer to natural or Nile crocodiles, which once inhabited this area. The Timsah Gorge merges with Nahal Taninim, creating the swampy area known as Timsah. This area's historical connection to crocodiles adds a unique and intriguing aspect to the hike, blending the landscape's natural beauty with a fascinating glimpse into the region's wildlife history.

In ancient times, construction often involved the extraction of stones directly from rock formations. This labor-intensive process required skilled artisans who would carefully chisel and shape the stones out of the rock face. Such activities have shaped various landscapes throughout history, leading to the creation of quarries. These quarries not only provide a glimpse into ancient construction techniques but also tell the story of the human impact on natural environments. The site you're referring to appears to be one such quarry, a testament to the historical methods of stone extraction and usage in building and architecture.

The building is a significant historical structure, a remnant of a large farm constructed by the Al-Huri family in 1880. This farm was characterized by its design, featuring rooms arrayed around an inner courtyard, a common architectural style in the region that facilitated both privacy and community living. Interestingly, most of the building stones for this farm were likely sourced from the nearby Hurvat Alik, indicating the utilization of local resources in its construction.

The Al-Huri family, who were Christians, demonstrated a notable sense of communal harmony and respect for their Muslim sharecroppers. This is exemplified by the construction of a mosque within the farm, particularly notable in the large, prominent hall located on the southern side of the building.

In 1913, the Jewish Colonization Association, under the patronage of Baron Edmond James de Rothschild, acquired the farm. This acquisition was part of a larger movement of Jewish settlement and agricultural development in the region, a significant chapter in the history of Zionist settlement in what was then Ottoman Palestine.

This building, therefore, is not just an architectural relic; it's a testament to the diverse cultural, religious, and historical layers that have shaped the region over the past century. Its walls and courtyards tell stories of cooperation and conflict, of change and continuity in the face of shifting political and social tides.

The most widespread and succulent plant in this region is known as "Khubeza" in Arabic or "Mallow" in English. The English name comes from Middle English "malwe," derived from Old English "mealwe," which itself was borrowed from Latin "malva." This lineage of the name reflects the plant's long-standing recognition across cultures.

In Arabic, the plant is called خُبَازَى (Khubeza). The name is connected to the word خُبْز (Khobz) - bread, possibly due to the round shape of the plant's seeds, reminiscent of a loaf of bread. In Hebrew, the plant is known as חלמית (Chalamit), and in other instances in Jewish texts, it's referred to as "חלמה" (Chalmah). The name also appears in Syriac as ܚܠܲܡܬܵܐ (Chalamta), referring to the marshmallow plant (from which marshmallow candy was originally made), due to its similarity to the medicinal plant Althaea officinalis.

Some interpreters suggest that this plant is mentioned in the Bible under the name "חַלָּמוּת" (Chalamut) in the Book of Job, although this interpretation is not universally accepted. The Mallow, also known as "Khubeza" in Arabic, "Arabian Bread," and "Dwarf Bread," is historically significant in Israel, especially in Jerusalem. During the siege in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War, the residents of Jerusalem consumed it as a food source during times of scarcity. The plant thrives in wild fields, neglected areas, but also in home gardens, symbolizing resilience and adaptability.

The farmhouse at Ramat Hanadiv harbors historical remnants that provide a vivid window into the lives of early 20th-century pioneers. One of the most notable features is a floor, cast in 1920, within what was originally a mosque hall. This space, emblematic of the cultural interplay of the time, was repurposed as a dining room by the Jewish settlers. Additionally, the kitchen area still houses a dilapidated brick oven, a silent testament to the daily lives and culinary practices of those who tried to make this place their home.

These elements are not just architectural remnants; they are tangible links to a past where challenges of settlement, cultural diversity, and adaptation played a significant role. The presence of a mosque within a Jewish settlement underlines the complex socio-religious dynamics of the era. The oven and dining area, meanwhile, speak to the domestic and communal aspects of pioneer life, underscoring their resilience and resourcefulness in the face of hardship.

Fruit trees were vital to ancient rural farms, with the pomegranate, fig, and pistachio trees being particularly significant due to their cultural and mythological importance.

The pomegranate is a symbol of prosperity and abundance, often associated with fertility and eternal life in various cultures and religious texts. Its numerous seeds represent fruitfulness and blessings.

Fig trees, among the oldest cultivated fruit trees, symbolize peace and prosperity. Their sweet fruit and lush foliage are revered in many ancient cultures, and they hold a special place in religious traditions like Judaism, Christianity, and Islam.

Pistachio trees, cultivated in the Middle East for thousands of years, are associated with royalty and wealth in Persian culture. Their hardy nature and valuable nuts have made them symbols of prosperity in various legends and tales.

These trees are more than agricultural elements; they are deeply integrated into cultural and spiritual narratives, symbolizing life, fertility, and prosperity.

Horbat ‘Alaq, an archaeological site near Mount Carmel in Israel, offers a fascinating glimpse into a long and varied history. The site's strategic location at the top of a hill overlooking the cultivated Hanadiv Valley played a significant role in its historical development. A water cistern and a spring found at the foot of the hill highlight the site's advantageous positioning.

Throughout 20 seasons of excavation, various findings have been uncovered, including artifacts dating back to the Bronze Age. The most impressive findings are from the early Roman period, which include a wall, a tower, and structures for processing agricultural produce. Other findings indicate the existence of a settlement during the Iron, Persian, and Hellenistic periods.

Among the significant discoveries are remains from the Herodian period, including a large palace dating back to the time of Herod (37-4 BCE). This palace was abandoned during the Jewish-Roman War. Other buildings that were part of this impressive site were found on the slope of the hill.

Initially, during the Persian period, Horbat ‘Alaq was a large settlement, which was later partially fortified with a wall and corner towers. This fortification is believed to have been established at the end of the 4th century BCE, either by the Persians against the advancing Macedonians or by the Macedonians themselves after their conquest of the region. However, its use as a fortress was brief. In the Hellenistic period, the fortification system was abandoned, and residential buildings were constructed around and within it.

The site went through further transformations during the early Roman period. Residential complexes were built within the fortification line, leading to a shift in the site's function and importance and a misunderstanding of its historical role and dating.

Excavations have revealed seven archaeological layers, showing that Horbat ‘Alaq is a multi-layered site with human activity dating back to the Pre-Pottery Neolithic and Chalcolithic periods. Despite earlier beliefs that the site was predominantly from the early Roman period and destroyed during the Great Revolt, no evidence of such destruction was found. Instead, continuous human presence has been documented, even into the 2nd century CE.

The site's identity and function have been subjects of debate. Initially thought to be a Jewish site and a palatial complex, it now seems more likely to have been a village or agricultural estate during the early Roman period, built upon the ruins of an earlier fortified site.

The architectural features of the fortified complex at Horbat ‘Alaq are similar to those found at nearby sites, suggesting a broader cultural and defensive network in the region, possibly linked to the Phoenician cities, especially Dor. These sites, including Horbat ‘Alaq, might have been part of a defensive system along the southern border of Phoenician influence during that period.

Near the site of Hurvat Aleq on Mount Carmel, the acanthus plant, known for its rich symbolism, thrives. Ancient Greeks believed that acanthus grew on the graves of heroes, which is one of the theories behind its ornamental motif in Corinthian capitals. However, in contrast, it was also used in "wreaths of shame" for informants and deceivers, symbolizing disgrace.

In the Middle Ages, the depiction of acanthus in art was associated with thistles and the crown of thorns, symbolizing Christ's sufferings. This made it a dual symbol of life, growth, and awareness of sin, pain, and compassion. In medieval book miniatures, particularly from the Winchester and Paris schools, the acanthus motif paralleled the written text, adding depth and meaning. This symbolism was further enhanced by the ancient belief that the acanthus leaf represented the "horn of the growing moon."

The ancient orchard near Ein Zur, by Hurvat Aleq, becomes especially captivating in autumn. The plane and maple trees, along with the Oriental plane (Chinar), burst into a vivid display of red, yellow, and orange foliage. This colorful canopy contrasts beautifully with the clear autumn sky, offering a serene and picturesque scene. The rustling leaves in the gentle breeze and the soft sunlight through the branches enhance the tranquil atmosphere, making it a perfect spot for experiencing the season's beauty amidst a historical setting.